Mark the location of each of the jacks and give them a number: To begin, take the plan that you created in Activity 3, and mark the locations of each of the proposed jacks onto the wall, numbering each of them as you go, in a logical sequence. It is a good idea to do this by starting at one point and moving around the room either clockwise or counterclockwise, numbering each jack sequentially as you go. To mark the position of each jack, either write on the wall in pencil, or affix post-it notes to the wall in each location that can be easily removed later.

Use a sequential numbering system: It is a good idea if you are networking multiple floors, to use the same sequential numbering pattern on each floor, and give an additional identifier to the jack, depending upon which floor is being numbered. For example, if you have a lower level and an upper level with ten jacks on each level, begin by numbering the lower(L) ten jacks L01, L02, L03, etc. , and mark all of the upper(U) jacks U01, U02, U03, etc.

This numbering system is VERY IMPORTANT as it will help you to properly organize the wires as they are aggregated into the wiring closet. It will also enable the wires to be "punched down" into the patch panel in the wiring closet in a logical order, which will aid in futuretroubleshooting and network management.

TIP: Use a logical numbering system that can be easily understood by anyone! This will help with any network troubleshooting that needs to be done at a later date!

• Decide on a standard height or heights for your jacks and make a template for that height:
  A good standard height for jacks is 1'-3" from the floor, making them unobtrusive visually, but easily accessible whether they are to be used at a desk, or for plugging in printers or networked equipment. Once the height of jacks is decided, it can be useful to build a template, so that it is not necessary to measure each time you wish to cut a consistent-height hole.
  

Note: The size of the hole that you cut in the drywall using this template should be based on the INSIDE profile of the jack mounts that are being used, NOT the outside. If the hole in the drywall is cut using the OUTSIDE dimension, the jackmount then fits THROUGH the hole, rather than mounting correctly on it. i.e. DON'T make the hole TOO LARGE, and it will ensure that there is space for mounting the jacks. A sample template is shown at right. To make the template: Measure and mark 1'-3" up from the bottom of the board. Place the chosen jack-mount on the board so that its horizontal centre lines up with the 1’-3” line. The inside of the jack-mount should line up with the outside edge of the board, as shown. Trace the jack mount, carefully marking especially the INSIDE profile. Next, using a bandsaw or handsaw, cut the board along the lines marked for the inside profile, and remove the excess.

Click here to see the short film clip demonstrating
how to install a wall jack. ( 1088kb download).

• Before cutting any holes, PLEASE READ THE SECTION ON SAFETY! Remember that cutting into walls is potentially dangerous as the installer may come into contact with electrical wiring, plumbing (or both!) gas lines and other hazards. Ensure that installers are PROPERLY QUALIFIED for any work they are to perform!
  
  
• Use the template to mark the location of the hole for the jack, and cut the hole: To cut the hole in the drywall, put the sawblade through the hole, and cut out the drywall along the lines that you have traced. The screw will enable you to pull the cut-out piece away and discard it.
  
  
• The (potentially) tough part - Fish the CAT5 through to the jack hole from the wiring closet location: Lines must be fished through the walls to this location, from the location where the wiring closet will reside. The technique for this will vary a great deal, depending upon the structure.
  

Click here to see the short film clip demonstrating
how to use a fish pole to run cable ( 357 kb download).

Here are some tips for fishing cable:

Use a fish pole or fish tape to feed the CAT5 through the walls: A fish pole can be put together piece by piece to either push a cable through, or can first be fed into a structure in order to then pull the cable back through.


     
Using Fish pole (left) and fish tape (right) to pull cables.

Watch for fire-blocking between floors: These are usually 2x4 blocks mounted between studs parallel to the floor, which can make it very difficult to fish wire through. They are designed to stop the upward spread of flames between floors during structural fires, and are generally found at floor level. The best idea is to try to go around them if you can - choose a route under the floor, in the crawlspace, or through the ceiling.



Tape the cable to the pull through very well: Whatever kind of fishline, fishpole or pull through that you use, ENSURE THAT THE END OF THE LINE IS FIRMLY ATTACHED, DOUBLE-TAPED, and as SMALL AND SMOOTH as possible. If cable is not firmly attached it can come off, which can be extremely frustrating if the line is part-way or nearly pulled through. Keep the attachment point SMALL and double-tape it with electrical tape to help it slide through or around any tough spots that you may encounter in the structure.







Use conduit to protect cable and make an easy place to pull cables through: Conduit can be placed under floors, inside ceilings, on the outside of buildings, and buried in the ground. It is an EXCELLENT idea to leave a rope inside conduit for easy future pull-through. A good way of ensuring that the rope stays in place is to drill a hole at each end of the conduit, and tie it onto each end. Note that if you want the rope to stay tied and still be able to pull cable through with it, it will need to be over twice the length of the conduit. If the rope pull through is shorter and is used to pull cable, just ensure that after the cable is pulled that the rope is again pulled back and re-tied.



Leave plenty of slack: When pulling CAT5 cable through walls, ensure that there is PLENTY OF SLACK. DO NOT STAPLE the CAT5 to the studs in new construction - leave it hanging in the walls loosely. This way, if equipment or jacks need to be moved at a later date, this will be possible. Also, CAT5 is sensitive to pressure, and stapling it could cause data loss. CAT5 cable is UNLIKE electrical wire and is NOT STAPLED into place!!



Replacing cable in a structure: If, in a structure, there is EXISTING network cabling that is being replaced, this makes an EXCELLENT PULL THROUGH. Attach the ends of the CAT5 cable firmly to the cable being removed, and use the old cable to pull the new cable through to the new location.



Use a Cable Joe if doing multiple runs: A cable joe is a useful tool which clamps onto the underside of floor joists, in ceilings, or onto frame structures. It consists of a series of rollers which cables may be fed through. If doing multiple runs, or long runs of cable, a cable joe can help to keep the cable straight as it comes off the roll, can help safely guide it around corners as the installer pulls from somewhere else, and can act as the "extra hand" that installers sometimes need.




Check out the short film clip demonstrating
how a cable joe works.
( 616kb download).


• When cable is fully pulled through, the wall jack may be installed.
  
  
• To install a wall jack onto CAT5 cable:
  
  
• Pull some cable through making sure that there is PLENTY of slack.
  
  
• Using a UTP cable jacket stripper, remove about 3" of cable jacket at the end of the CAT5 cable.
  
  
• Untwist the individual twisted pairs.
  
  
• Determine the correct length for the wires depending upon the type of jack used:
  

	If the jack is a "punch down" type:
	Insert the CAT5 cable into the open end of the jack.
	Hold the cable end into the jack with thumb and forefinger.
	Pull each individual wire into the correct slot, following the diagrammed pattern printed on the jack. USE "A" STANDARD for horizontal (in-wall/jack) wiring.
	Use a punch-down tool to punch the wires fully into their slots and trim the ends in one action.
	Push secure caps over top of the punched-down wires to keep them in place.
	The completed jack can then be placed into the jack wall-mount.
	If the jack is a "clip" type:
	carefully insert the individual wires into the slots provided, ensuring that each is between the metal conductor posts in its slot. Follow the "A" standard wire colour pattern printed on the jack.
	push the CAT5 towards the jack as far as it will go
	firmly close the clip down onto the wiring




• There are advantages and disadvantages to each of these types of jacks, including cost:
  
  
• Clip-type jacks don't require you to have many tools. No punch down tool is required. However, the clip may not be very secure, it is a very fiddley procedure putting the wires in place, and it is difficult to push the entire CAT5 cable close enough to the jack.
  
  
• Punch down jacks are very secure, are less fiddley than the clip type, and enable the installer to have the CAT5 cable close to the jack, making for a more secure connection. However, a punch down tool is required to install this jack type. Given that the end result seems to be more stable, the cost of the punchdown tool is probably justified.



• Install the jack onto the wallplate: Once the jack end is installed on the end of the CAT5, it may be installed in the jack wallplate. Most jack wallplates now have a slot on the back of the plate that is compatible with the jacks, allowing the jacks to be clipped firmly into place.
  
  
• Label the cable: With the jack clipped into place, LABEL the CAT5 cable according to your numbering system layout. This can be done with a labelling machine, and clear heatshrink wrap can then be heat-shrunk over the label for security. This will ensure that when cables are aggregated in the wiring closet, you will be able to determine which cable goes to which jack, label them in the closet and organize them accordingly.
  

TIP: Don't have a heat gun and shrink wrap for labelling your network? Use a label maker and clear tape.

• Install the wall jack mount: Next, install the wall-jack mount. Special wall-jack mounts are available for installation on pre-existing drywall. These allow the installer to simply place the walljack mount on the drywall, positioning it over the cut hole. Tabs are then bent backwards over the drywall, and screws then firmly pull the jack-mount in place, attaching it to the drywall. <picture of walljack>. <pictures of bending tabs back and screwing it into place.>
  
  
• Mount the jack plates onto the wall mount: The wall jack plate with jacks in place can then be mounted onto the jack-mount. Make a note of which cable is in which jack position, then simply push the CAT5 cable back through the wall, position the jack over the jack mount, and use the screws provided to fasten the jack-plate to the jack mount.
  
  
• Label the wall plates: Next, label the wall plate according to the cable positions used. Most wall plates come with clear plastic covers that can be used to cover and protect the affixed label.
  
  
• New structures: If installing CAT5 cable into a new construction, simply follow the same planning steps for the network, and place and label jacks accordingly. In new construction, jack-mounts are slightly different, allowing them to be installed on studs, pre-drywall, and are constructed in such a way that the drywall can be installed over top of them.
  
  
  • The same important rules apply for running the cable in new construction though:
    
    
    • Leave slack: Make sure that there is PLENTY of slack cable left in the walls,
      
      
    • DO NOT STAPLE the cable to the wall studs,
      
      
      and,
      
      
    • There can never be too many wall jacks. Creating a new structure is the perfect opportunity to ensure that the LAN has PLENTY of access points!!!
      

TIP: For new construction, put as many jacks as are affordable! There is no such thing as "too many jacks" in an ethernet LAN.