Once the cable "bridges" have been brought near to a subscriber location, there are several different ways of facilitating the cable system installation.

Bringing cable to the "drop location"

Generally, access to the subscriber location from an aerial cable plant is achieved with an aerial drop, although conduit may also be used as it is sometimes brought to service the structure during new construction. Most often though, where aerial structure exists, even new construction will permit the above ground termination point for cable on the house or office. In new construction, this often means a service mast is installed that extends above the eve of a house.

There are maximum height requirements for service drops, which change according to location. The local municipality or village, or the local telephone company should be able to provide the height restriction guidelines. Common sense is a useful tool in this process, as height restrictions are generally designed to keep aerial cabling out of the way, away from vandals, and as safe a distance as possible from "regular life" around the home. If it is not possible to find out what the height restrictions are, then duplicating the methods used by the local telephone company is probably a safe bet for cabling installation.

Drop cable

There are basically two kinds of drop wire:

1. "Regular" drop cable: this is attached using wedge clamps (drop clamps) or wire twists (both shown below). These make direct contact with the coaxial cable. This direct contact can cause misshapen cables or "squeeze flat" cables, both of which make it difficult for the signal to pass through the coaxial cable. In some cases, the digital or Internet signal can be stopped altogether.
   
   
   
   
2. Figure 8 drop cable: This is the most often used drop cable these days. This cable type accommodates service clips generally used in the home. This is because "Fig 8" cable has its own built-in support wire. This added feature allows for suspension of the cable drop without physically touching (and potentially damaging) the coaxial cable part of the drop. This type of cable is attached using wire twists that attach to support the strand, and the support strand can be separated from the coaxial cable wherever and whenever necessary.
   
   Because digital transmissions over cable systems has become so commonplace in the last decade, the "fig 8" drop cable has become the preferred choice, as there is less chance that installation of the cable drop will destroy the signal coming down the coax.

Both types of cables come in various sizes (RG 59, RG6, RG 1) to accommodate different lengths of service drops. As with mainline cable, the larger the drop line cable, the further the signal will travel.

TIP: If an older or abandoned cable plant is being taken over as part of the new installation, the mainline equipment is generally replaced and/or thoroughly checked. It may become apparent that the existing old service drops may be sufficient for passing some amount of signal, however they may not be sufficient for passing a digital Internet signal. If this is the case, service drops will need to be replaced!! (This cost will need to be accounted for in budgeting if an old cable plant is being taken over!)

Once the connection to the house has been established, the "fig 8" wire is used only as far as the box located on the inside or outside of the home where the incoming service enters the subscriber location. This is usually called the "D-mark" location. The incoming service line usually splits at this point, and is directed to various "locals" around the building (wiring closet, TV-outlet, network jack/modem). Even if there are no additional feeds, this box or "D-mark" area should represent the transition from the "Fig 8" cable to "standard" coaxial cable. The "support" strand is no longer needed at this time, and can actually make the installation more difficult if used beyond this point.

The "D-marker" box or location is the location where the system is GROUNDED. It is extremely important to ground all of the equipment in the box, as well as the system, by attaching to the hydro exterior ground line (usually found near the hydro meter on the exterior of the building) or, if the hydro main ground can't be found, then to the metal plumbing in the house. Grounding the equipment is CRUCIAL, as it helps reduce static and interference within the cable signal and it will help to protect the equipment (and people in the house) from lightning and power spikes.

From the "D-marker" location onward, regular coaxial cable is used. Standard coaxial cable is easier to route and attach to the home . Getting wires into the subscriber location as quickly as possible usually leaves the tidiest appearance. Cables can then be routed through basements or suspended in ceilings or attics. When attaching cables within subscriber homes, it is best to ask owners first - it is their home. As most homes are generally already finished when an installer arrives, many have finished basements with drywall throughout. Interior wire routing becomes difficult, impossible, or impossible to accomplish within a reasonable time with minimal "damage." Wire routes may then have to be completed outside the home. Ensure that good communication with the subscriber is maintained throughout the installation process!

Staples are the most common, and generally the fastest and most effective wire attachment method. However, staples do not work well for some sidings, such as aluminum or vinyl, and staples can split some wood sidings (such as cedar shake).

Since the advent of digital signals on cable systems, staples are used less and less. This is because no matter how carefully coaxial cable may be stapled, depressions are created in the surface of the coax. While this may not effect a television signal, it can cause difficulties for digital signals to pass through a dented cable.

Screws and clips are the preferred method for installation of subscriber cable systems for digital/data services. This process usually takes longer, but is well worth the extra effort as by preserving the round shape of the coax, means that the signal quality will last longer. Clips apply force over a wider area on the cable, and don't depress only one portion of the cable, squishing it, such as with staples.

Experience will teach an installer that there are many places to hide wires on the exterior of a house. Many siding types have hidden channels, or ther are ledges behind fascia boards, even eavestroughs! Many times the subscriber will choose a preferred route. If the installation is being done while a building is under construction, try to arrange with the subscriber to do the cable installation prior to the drywall completion. This will allow the wires to be neatly run through the walls. Complete runs of coaxial cable to all locations in the building will allow for complete future control over outlets, at every location. (This means that no outlet will be dependent on any other, so that no splitters should need to be installed in the cables in any room of the building.) Running coaxial cable prior to every room prior to drywall stage means that subscribers will have complete control in the future over whether digital networks, television, Internet, none, or all of these services are applied in any room of the building. The benefit of having multiple outlets and flexibility throughout the building will far outweigh any initial upfront wiring costs. For the installer, accommodating these options during construction is FAR quicker and easier.

Interior termination:

There are many types of wall plates and securing boxes available on the market. All will meet the needs of a particular cable system. Shop carefully to find the best product to suit budget or those that are easier to work with.

Service Cable Connectorization:

Service cable connectors are made specific for interior or exterior applications. These are also specific to the sizes of service cable. There are many suppliers with many different types. As with head-end equipment, it is best to shop around to many suppliers to see what is available. Check with existing systems to see if any particular systems are recommended for the area.

As with cable plant construction, the biggest enemy of subscriber system exterior construction is WATER. All connectors must be well sealed. Most connectors will claim to be the "best" and "most watertight," so in the end, purchase decisions just come down to a sales pitch, or personal testing and preference!

Interior connectorization is generally straightforward, as most connectors will work just fine. Some have a larger, rougher exterior collar that can be easily manipulated by hand, making it easier to attach and remove from devices at the subscriber location. For more specific details on connectorization, see the connectorization module.