Building a temporary tower is an inexpensive, fast, and simple way to get a piece of the wireless network started. It can be erected of mainly pre-fabricated parts, and can be put up in a day. If tied down adequately with guy wires and firmly affixed to a base, there is no reason why a "temporary" tower can't become at least 'semi-permanent.'

The beauty of creating a temporary tower such as the one shown is that it can be easily erected on a rooftop or other convenient location without structural alteration, and can easily be reoriented or moved. Sometimes this need arises if line-of-sight issues arise which make the network unreliable, such as trees growing, or buildings being erected in the way of the signal. Additionally, if building ownership changes that make having a tower present as the agreement was with a previous owner, this temporary tower set-up is fairly easy to take down, move to a new location, and set up again. It can also be a stop-gap measure until time and budget allows for a permanent tower.

As with all other tower work, SAFETY is of the utmost importance. Though this tower is simple to set up, the same utmost respect for safety regulations and great care while working at heights must be adhered to in order to prevent accidents.

Building a Temporary Tower:

On the "Tools and Materials" page for this module, you will find a checklist for what is required to create the temporary tower. Below, the summary table and diagram points out all of the parts that you'll need. Below at the left is a diagram showing a temporary tower, with explanations at the right for what each of the letters denote.

A. Antenna on Temporary tower: Temporary towers can be used to mount any type of antenna, from a directional antenna as shown, to a dish or omnidirectional antenna. ^Back to top^

TIP: You can make your own antenna too! More...

B. Antenna Clamps: Standard U-bolt clamps such as the one shown at the right are generally used to clamp antennas on, and most purchased antennas come with an appropriate clamping mechanism or mounting plate. ^Back to top^

C. Waveguide Connectors - Seal: Seal the Antenna waveguide with silicone and tape onto the waveguide cable that will take the signal back to the wiring closet. TIP: Placing a bead of silicone as shown at the right, along the threads of the waveguide BEFORE threading the two waveguide sections together will ensure that the waveguide join is WATERPROOF! To finish this seal, wrap two layers of electrical tape, one at a time, from the bottom up. This will ensure that the next time anyone needs to remove the antenna, that the hardware won't have rusted in place. ^Back to top^

D. Guy ring clamp: While putting the temporary tower together, slide a guy ring clamp over the main pole. This inexpensive part serves as a firm attachment point for the guy wires and will help to ensure that the tower stays in place longer.^Back to top^

E. Guy wires: Galvanized guywire is relatively cheap, is generally available at most hardware stores, and is simple to work with. Aviation cable will also work as guywire, but is more expensive. In a pinch, synthetic rope would work, however it should be replaced with a strong, non-stretch (or low stretch) METAL alternative. For the rooftop installation shown, we fastened each of the guys to pre-existing joins in the edge of the roof flashing. This was made easier by popping out one of the nails, and using the existing hole to install our eye bolt. We then attached a turnbuckle, tightened the guy as much as possible, until all three guys were evenly tensioned, and we clamped off the guy line with TWO clamps per guyline. This ensures that the guylines will stay secure, even in the worst wind. ^Back to top^

TIP: Make sure that your guylines are evenly tensioned and secure! Use turnbuckles to help tension the lines, and use TWO clamps on each end of the line! Trim off any excess guyline, and tape the end with electrical tape so that nobody gets cut!

SAFETY TIP: Make sure that your guylines are MARKED AND CLEARLY VISIBLE! Use surveyors tape, pre-fabricated guyline caution flags, or slide YELLOW GARDEN HOSE over the lines! This will both protect them, and make them visible (but you'll have to remember to slide it over before you put the clamps on...)

F. Antenna mounting pole or mast: Available in one piece or sectional systems, metal plumbing pipe would work equally well as a strong mounting point for antennas. ^Back to top^

G: Tape waveguide to mast: To ensure that the network will function correctly for a longer period, ensure that the waveguide is firmly attached along its length to the mast. Using electrical tape, tape the waveguide to the mast every eighteen inches or so. Waveguide, as it is copper wire, can be subject to work hardening and breakage if it is not correctly fastened and is allowed to wave in the wind.
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H. Heavy plywood base: The base shown is a 1" thick heavy plywood base. This base is easy to bolt through, and is substantial enough that it won't blow away. WHATEVER YOU DO, If the temporary tower is being mounted on a roof, DO NOT DRILL THROUGH OR PIERCE THE ROOF IN ANY WAY!! Leave the roof seal intact, and instead hold your antenna tower down by creating a firm base for it that doesn't need to be screwed down onto anything.^Back to top^

TIP: It is a VERY good idea, particularily if the tower that is being built can be accessed by the public, to WEIGH THE BASE DOWN. Use concrete blocks chained together, so that they can't be removed.

I. GROUNDING cable: All electrical equipment, particularily towers, MUST BE GROUNDED. Because towers are generally TALL, this means that they can be susceptible to lightning strikes, as lightning generally hits the tallest object (i.e. it chooses the shortest path to complete an electrical circuit.) The grounding cable shown goes off the roof, into a conduit which travels down the side of the building. It then passes along through a shallow trench, to where it is attached to an 8' grounding rod that has been hammered all the way into the ground with a sledgehammer, as shown at the right. The exposed cable and top of the grounding rod can then be covered over with earth. For further information about proper grounding, see the grounding activity. ^Back to top^

Exposed top of the grounding rod has the grounding cable attached. Both can be covered with earth when the installation is complete.

J. Pre-fabricated Folding Tripod base: Pre fabricated folding tripod bases like the one shown at the right are inexpensive, strong, and can be easily packed, if necessary, into remote locations for tower installation. ^Back to top^ TIP: To make your tripod base last longer, PAINT IT before you use it, even if it is already galvanized.

K. Conduit, raised above ground on blocks: Conduit is a quick and easy way to protect and provide a longer life for waveguide cable. Ensure that conduit is raised ABOVE where any water may stand and freeze, and secure any non-buried conduit so that it will not be moved by varmints or humans who may come across it. ^Back to top^

This semi-permanent tower can be used equally well within a community, in the bush or on a mountaintop. Installed and maintained properly, it should provide years of service, with perhaps only the occasional need to move it based on environmental conditions.

Click here to see the short film clip demonstrating How to create a temporary tower ( 936kb download).