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Module Three - Activity 4- Terminating a cable: Connectorization

This activity first describes installing an exterior connector, then an interior crimp-style connector

Coaxial Cable consists of an outer and an inner metal jacket, which are separated by a non-conductive inner core, and wrapped with a protective outer jacket.

 

 

The outer jacket for mainline cable is aluminum, while for household cable, the outer conductor is a braided copper jacket. All varieties of coax cable have a copper inner conductor. aluminum outer jacket, a foam inner core, Because of this, coaxial cable is subject to changing size with temperature changes.

Cables are all plastic coated, and some come with a gel water barrier, or an absorbant material liner. Depending upon the type of installation and the location, the cable supplier will be able to recommend the appropriate type of cable.

Generally speaking, water-resistant or water-proof cables are more expensive, more difficult to work with, however they are more durable against the environment.

Coaxial cable comes in various sizes up to 1" diametre, stepped at 1/8" intervals. (.500 = 1/2", .625= 5/8", .750=3/4" etc.) Larger diameter cable also has a larger centre core. This makes larger diametre cable more difficult to work with, however the signal will travel further down a larger cable, meaning that less in-line amplification will be required, which will cost less. (Installing fewer amplifiers will cost less money).

Large diametre cable is generally used for main trunk distribution lines, while smaller cables are easier to work with and are more often used in the bridge distribution portion of the cable plant. Additionally, because there is usually more equipment installed in the bridge portion of the cable plant (taps, splitters, amps), more signal will be lost in this portion of the system. Because of the additional signal loss, there is not much benefit to using a larger diametre cable.


Installing an exterior connector on a cable:

Make sure the end is a clean cut before beginning: Before installing a connector, ensure that the coax cable end is still round. To do this, it is sometimes easiest to make a fresh cut on the cable that you are going to use.

  • Using cable cutters, cut through the outer portion of the cable by circling the cable with the cutters a couple of times. This will mar the aluminum outer jacket, and help to weaken it. This will help to keep the cable shape round once it's cut.

  • Once the cable is prepared in this way, and the end still looks round, three to four inches of aluminum jacket will need to be exposed in preparation for installing the connector. Three to four inches exposure should be ample room for connectorization, no matter what size cable is being prepared.

 

Cut the outer jacket: Using a knife or cable cutters, cut around the cable about four inches up from the end, cutting through the outer jacket. Then, using a knife, cut into the cable jacket in a line parallel to the cable length, from the end of the cable to the cut that you have made.

Be careful to ensure that in doing this, it is mostly only the outer jacket that is being cut. As much as possible of the protective aluminum coating needs to be preserved.

   

Remove the outer jacket: If the outside jacket was properly cut using the instructions above, it should easily slide off if the coax is non-waterproofed cable.

If the cable is waterproofed, solvents will have to be applied using rags, and the jacket may be more difficult to slide off. The waterproofing solution generally makes the cable jacket stick very well to the cable.

   
Make sure that the aluminum jacket is clean: If the cable that you have purchased has a water-proof gel or coating, it will need to be cleaned with the solvent recommended by the cable manufacturer or supplier.
   

Centre core: The end of the cable being worked with should now appear round, and the centre (still round) core should be visible, as shown.

If it is as shown, then the cable is ready to core, which will expose the centre conductor and remove enough of the white foam medium to allow the connector to be installed.

   
Line up the coring tool and cable: The main idea behind coring is to get the centre of the cable into the centre of the coring tool, so that the cable will turn out as required. This job takes practice.
   

Insert the cable into the centre of the coring tool carefully: Ensure that the cable is still lined up on centre with the coring tool.

TIP: If you are having trouble seeing where the centre is on the flush end of the cable, use a knife or cutters to remove the outer aluminum jacket and foam to expose the centre conductor at the end of the cable. This will allow you to see the centre pin clearly and be able to insert it into the centre of the coring tool.
   

Begin coring: The length of the copper conductor that needs to be exposed will depend on the type of connector being used.

Read the specifications provided with the connector to ensure that the correct amount is exposed, or look on the connector itself, as this dimension is sometimes printed right on the connector.

Install the correct diametre of coring tool onto the drill, and begin to core.

   

Clean any plastic coating off the copper conductor: There will usually be some plastic residue remaining once the coring is completed to expose the copper conductor.

Because this coating is sometimes clear, it may look like copper wire until it is scratched at with a thumbnail, or other suitable tool. (A thumbnail is suggested because it won't harm the conductor)

Ensure that as little damage as possible (no nicks or scratches) is done to the copper conductor) Avoid knife marks!!! These will weaken the conductor.

   
Or, use a stripper to clean the end: It is also possible to use a stripper to make sure that the end of the copper conductor is cleaned, however, as mentioned above, make sure that the centre conductor is not damaged in the process.
   
Cut the end to length, according to the specifications: The connector manufacture will specify exactly how long the centre conductor needs to be. Measure accurately and use cutters to trim the end off squarely.
   
Ready for connector? check the specifications and instructions for the type of connector you have! The cleaned, cut to length squared off end is now ready for the connector. There are many different kinds of connectors, however most contact the cable in a similar fashion. Make sure that you have the correct specifications and instructions for the type of connector you are using, before continuing with connectorization.

If the connector is going onto an existing outdoor line, NOW is the time to slip the heat-shrink tube over the end of the line, BEFORE the connector is in place. (If you don't put the heat shrink on first, it means that you'll have to undo the connector again to slip the heat shrink over, then begin the tightening process again.)

The connector portions are tightened using wrenches. Connectors will all contain water-tight seals, however conductors installed outdoors will need an additional heat-shrink tube installed once the connector is in place. This will help stop corrosion and will extend the lifespan of the connector.

Connectors provide a terminating centre pin (shown at the left), which use the copper to connect the cable. Different lengths of connector pins are available, however, for maximum flexibility, purchase the longest lengths, and trim as necessary.

   
The following sequence of photographs shows the correct order for installation of a connector.
   
   
   
Connectors are first hand-tightened onto the coaxial cable, then are tightened with wrenches as each additional connector section is added on.
   
Wrenches of two different sizes are turned in opposite directions to fasten on the connectors. Most often the pin part of the connector is fastened to the equipment, before the back two portions of the connector are screwed on and the cable inserted to complete the connection.
   
The completed connector after tightening.
 
Joining two connectorized portions of cable together: splicing.
   
Mastering connectorization makes it possible to join virtually any piece of equipment or cable together. The photographs below show the sequence used in joining two pieces of coaxial cable together via a splice.
   
This shows all of the completed portions of a splice broken apart. 
   
This shows the splice with both ends completed and ready for insertion into a splice block.  
   
The completed splice. 
   
When a connector is used "in the field," it is generally shrink-wrapped as shown, to seal it off from the elements. In this case, the shrink-wrapped connector is shown installed on a service feed tap, off of a bridger line.
   

A heat-gun is used to shring the heat-shrink tubing over top of the connector to seal it and protect it from the elements.

If no power is available, a torch will work to shrink the heat-shrink tubing. Some diffuser ends for torches will work better than others. If using a torch instead of a heat gun, take care NOT TO BURN the heat-shrink tubing. Burned heat shrink won't protect the splice.

   
Connectors are used to connect coaxial cable to inline devices such as service taps. The same principle applies: connectors are first hand tightened-on, then finish-tightened with a wrench. Again, the pin portion of the connector should be mated to the inline device first and tightened.Then the mainline and rest of the connector are applied as follows.
   
 
   
All connectors are then able to screw into the housings on equipment that is mounted on the cable lines. The housings on the equipment help to complete the connection by forming a circuit with the outer aluminum jacket. Inside, the centre pin is secured into the equipment, and screwed in with a pin screw to complete the centre copper connection.
   
Connectors in the field must be properly cleaned in order to work properly. They must then be carefully sealed. A downward slope or "drip loop" is important following a connector to ensure that water runs away from the connector and equipment. This driploop would be made in the mainline cable, immediately after the connector.
   
If long pin connectors are purchased, they can then be cut to the correct length to accommodate the specifications for any device. Different types of devices have different specifications for pin length.
   

The connector pin at left has been cut to the correct length for this device.





TIP: If when purchasing connectors you are unsure about what kind to purchase, purchase connectors with LONGER pins. This will provide more flexibility to be able to accommodate more types of equipment.

Installing an interior connector on cable using a crimp fitting

This type of connectorization is generally used for indoor purposes, as it is less weatherproof than the type of exterior connector fitting shown above.

 

Insert the cable end into the correct diametre of coaxial strippers.

There is usually a stopper which will help to guage the correct length of coaxial jacket to strip. If the stripper being used does not have a stop, expose 3/8" of the copper centre. The amount of copper shield exposed will then be dictated by the strippers.

 

   
Spin the strippers around the cable. A good method for this is to go two times around the cable in one direction, and two times around in the other direction. This will cut through the outer jacket and also help to prevent the outer shield from wrapping around the copper core. If the outer shield does come into contact with the core, it will ground out the connector. A grounded out connector will not work.
   
Hold onto the cable firmly with the strippers, and pull away from the cable, holding the cable firmly in the opposite hand. The tip of the jacket will come away.
   
The strippers will expose the centre conductor, will cut through the outer jacket, and will expose the outer woven conductor.
   

Push the woven conductor back, splaying it out so that when the connector is pushed over the cable, it will make a good connection.

Also, check to make sure that no outer conductive material is making contact with the centre pin.

   

Push the correct diametre of connector on, as far as it will go. the connector will stop once it has been pushed on fully. This generally means that the connector floor is flush with the end of the foam centre where the pin protrudes.

 

   
Insert the connector and cable into the crimper tool. Make sure that it is lined up properly, and crimp the connector on VERY firmly.
   

The completed connector should be very firmly attached to the cable, and is ready to use. These types of connectors are used for interior connections.

Connectors should be tested immediately after installation, using a connector test meter. Generally the only problem that may arise with a connector is that the outer braided conductor is making contact with or is too close to the centre conductor, which would cause the connector to malfunction.

Unlike networking cables however, coaxial connectors work a very large percentage of the time.